Calvin Klein F/W 2012: Sexy and Architectural
While a Calvin Klein show is always subject to hype, this season show was particularly abuzz due to pre-show rumors of an Occupy Wall Street bust. However, the rally ended up being an actual bust, with only a few protestors setting up camp outside the event. Most of the media attention was directed to the front row, thanks to the arrival of Emma Stone and Rooney Mara.
The Calvin Klein fall collection called out to The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo‘s Lisbeth Salandar. During a preview of the collection with Vogue, Costa revealed that a recent trip to the Los Angeles Museum of Contemporary Art was very influential to this season’s mood. This was due to the exhibition, “Under the Big Black Sun: California Art 1974-1981,” which features works associated with the West Coast art and Los Angeles punk scenes. The inspiration from these movements was juxtaposed with imagery of Postmodern architecture—an idea that translated well into the world of Calvin.
While the black, gray, and salmon hues were vital to the collection’s aesthetic, the statement lied in Costa’s structured-yet-generously-cut silhouettes. An oxymoron it may seem, but emphasis was put on the hour glass form by cinching the waist (in some cases, with futuristic metal-band belts) and leaving room for the hips to breath. The architectural garments were comprised of classic materials infused with modern technique. “Innovative fabrics – like technical tweed, bonded basket weave crepe and painted wool mohair – enhance the collection’s contemporary, urban aesthetic,” explained Costa in his show notes. The collection was primarily comprised of dresses but also featured tailored cropped trousers and peplum jackets. The slick hair and bare makeup softened the razor-sharp ensembles.
While there didn’t seem to be any Oscar-ready dresses in the mix, talk of Mara wearing Calvin Klein on her big day has still become widespread. If Mara does indeed wear one of Costa’s designs, we predict it will be a gown version of the sheer, cut-out panel dresses, which practically screamed out to her from the runway.
Lauren Valenti is founder of fashion and music website, TheVogueVibes.com, as well as an editor for MyFDB.